Bush Goliath Tomatoes: Determinate, Early & Large

Bush Goliath tomato plants represent a notable variety in the realm of home gardening because determinate tomatoes habit makes it suitable for growers with limited space. Disease resistance is a characteristic of Bush Goliath tomato plant, allowing for a healthier yield, and the plant produces large tomatoes, making it a favorite for sandwiches and salads. Early maturity is a trait that Bush Goliath tomatoes are known for, often providing harvests sooner than many other varieties.

Alright, let’s talk about a tomato that’s a real head-turner – the Bush Goliath. Seriously, the name alone should give you a clue that we’re not talking about your average, run-of-the-mill cherry tomato here! Think juicy, plump, and packed with that classic tomato flavor we all crave.

Imagine sinking your teeth into a slice of this bad boy, fresh off the vine… Pure bliss, right? Bush Goliaths aren’t just about size, though. These tomatoes have a fantastic sweet-tart taste that makes them perfect for slicing on sandwiches, dicing into salads, or even turning into a rich, homemade sauce.

But here’s the kicker: despite their impressive fruit size, Bush Goliaths are surprisingly well-behaved in the garden. They’re known for their compact, bush-like growth habit, which means you don’t need a sprawling, jungle-like tomato patch to enjoy a bountiful harvest.

So, why would you, a discerning gardener, choose this particular variety? Well, picture this: maximum tomato goodness from a plant that’s happy in a container on your patio! These guys are real overachievers. They offer a high yield of those big, juicy fruits without demanding you become a full-time tomato wrangler.

And because they’re determinate – meaning they grow to a certain size and then focus on producing fruit all at once – the pruning is kept to a minimum. You won’t need to spend hours snipping and shaping. Though they’re determinate, a little support is beneficial to keep those beautiful fruits off the ground!

Understanding Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes: It’s All About the Tomato Lifestyle!

So, you’re diving into the wonderful world of tomatoes, and you keep hearing these fancy terms: determinate and indeterminate. What do they even mean? Are they judging your gardening skills? Don’t worry; it’s way simpler (and less judgmental) than it sounds!

Think of it this way: tomatoes are like people. Some are homebodies (determinate), and some are wanderers (indeterminate).

Determinate Tomatoes: The Organized Bunch

Determinate tomatoes are your classic “bush-type” varieties. They’re like the organized friends who have their whole lives planned out. These plants grow to a certain size, set all their fruit at once (or mostly at once), and then call it a day. It’s like they have a strict schedule to keep! This makes them perfect for canning, as you get a big harvest all at the same time.

Indeterminate Tomatoes: The “Never Stop Growing” Crew

Now, indeterminate tomatoes are the free spirits of the tomato world. They have a “vining” growth habit, meaning they just keep on growing and growing, and producing fruit throughout the entire season! It’s like they have endless energy. This does mean they need more pruning and support (think tomato cages or stakes) to keep them from becoming a tangled mess.

Bush Goliath: The Determinate Champion (With a Twist!)

Our star, the Bush Goliath, falls into the determinate camp. That means you can expect a bountiful harvest in a relatively short period. Because it’s determinate, it won’t need as much pruning as its indeterminate cousins, which is great news for busy gardeners! Less fuss, more delicious tomatoes.

However, even though they are determinate, Bush Goliaths still benefit from a little support. A small stake or cage will help keep those heavy, delicious tomatoes off the ground and prevent the plant from toppling over. It’s like giving your champion a helping hand to reach the finish line!

In short, knowing the difference between determinate and indeterminate is key to understanding how your tomato plant will grow and what kind of care it will need. Happy gardening!

The Tomato Plant Life Cycle: A Visual Guide

Ever wondered what magical transformation a tiny tomato seed undergoes before gracing your BLT? It’s a pretty fascinating journey! Think of it as the tomato equivalent of going from a baby to a fully-grown adult, complete with awkward phases and moments of glory. Let’s break down the tomato plant life cycle into easy-to-understand stages, giving you a roadmap from seed to salsa.

• Germination: This is the “awakening” phase. A dormant tomato seed, given the right moisture and warmth, sprouts to life. Think of it as the seed stretching, yawning, and saying, “Alright, let’s do this!” It typically takes about 5-10 days.
• Seedling: The tiny sprout pushes its way out of the soil, unfurling its first true leaves. These little guys are delicate and need gentle care. It’s like the toddler stage – cute, but requires constant attention. This stage lasts about 2-3 weeks.
• Vegetative Growth: Now the plant starts building its structure – growing taller, adding more leaves, and developing a strong stem. This is the “teen” phase, focused on growth and expansion. Expect this to last around 4-6 weeks.
• Flowering: The first little yellow flowers appear, signaling that the plant is ready to get serious about reproduction. These flowers are like the plant putting on its best outfit for a first date, hoping to attract pollinators. This usually happens around 6-8 weeks.
• Fruit Set: If pollination is successful, the flowers give way to tiny green tomatoes. This is where the magic truly happens – the promise of deliciousness is just around the corner! This takes approximately 1-2 weeks after flowering.
• Fruit Ripening: The green tomatoes swell and change color, turning red, yellow, or even purple depending on the variety. This is the final act, where the plant delivers its juicy reward. Ripening typically takes 6-8 weeks.

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A Tomato Timeline: When to Expect the Magic

Now, let’s put these stages on a calendar. Keep in mind that these are approximate timelines, and Mother Nature has a sense of humor, so things might vary!

• Germination: 5-10 days
• Seedling: 2-3 weeks
• Vegetative Growth: 4-6 weeks
• Flowering: Around 6-8 weeks
• Fruit Set: 1-2 weeks after flowering
• Fruit Ripening: 6-8 weeks

Visual Aid: (Imagine a simple graphic here showing a timeline with each stage and its corresponding duration. This could be a bar graph or a simple illustration.)

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Environmental Factors: The X-Factors

Just like humans, tomato plants are sensitive to their environment. Here’s how temperature and sunlight can affect their life cycle:

• Temperature: Tomatoes love warmth! Cool temperatures can slow down germination and vegetative growth. Extremely high temperatures can hinder fruit set and ripening.
• Sunlight: Sunlight is the plant’s fuel. Insufficient sunlight can result in leggy growth and poor fruit production. Aim for at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

Understanding these stages and factors will make you a tomato-growing pro in no time! Happy gardening!

Anatomy of a Tomato Plant: Maximizing Growth

Alright, let’s get down and dirty (pun intended!) with the ins and outs of your tomato plant. Knowing what’s what on your green buddy is like having the cheat codes to a video game – you’ll know exactly how to level up its growth and get those juicy tomatoes poppin’!

• The Roots: The Underground Railroad of Nutrients
  Think of the roots as the unsung heroes working tirelessly underground. They’re not just there to hold the plant in place (anchorage). They’re the main source for absorbing water and all those yummy nutrients from the soil. A happy root system equals a happy, productive tomato plant.

• The Stem: The Highway to Tomato Heaven
  The stem is the plant’s backbone, providing support so it doesn’t face-plant. It’s also the superhighway that transports water and nutrients from the roots up to the leaves and, of course, those future tomatoes. So, it’s an important part that you should take care of!

• The Leaves: The Solar Panels of the Plant World
  Leaves are not just pretty green things! They’re the powerhouses of photosynthesis, turning sunlight into the energy your tomato plant needs to grow big and strong. They also play a crucial role in transpiration, which is like the plant’s way of sweating – releasing water vapor to stay cool.

• The Flowers: The Magic of Reproduction
  These delicate beauties are where the magic happens. Pollination is key, leading to fruit production. Without those flowers getting a little “love,” you’re not getting any tomatoes. Bees are usually the messengers that carry out “love.”

• The Fruit: The Grand Finale (and the Yummy Reward!)
  Ah, the tomato itself! This is where seed development takes place, ensuring future generations of tomatoes. More importantly, it’s the edible part that you’ve been waiting for! This delicious fruit is the reward for all your hard work.

• Putting It All Together: The Symphony of Growth

  Each part plays a crucial role. Healthy roots mean better absorption. A strong stem ensures everything gets where it needs to go. Lush leaves power the plant. And successful flowers lead to delicious fruit. Proper care – like watering deeply, fertilizing regularly, and providing support – ensures each part thrives, leading to a bountiful harvest. After all, you also need to rest right?

5. Creating the Perfect Environment: Optimal Growing Conditions for Bush Goliath Tomatoes

Alright, let’s talk shop about setting up the ultimate VIP lounge for your Bush Goliath tomato plants. Think of it as their personal spa – we want them relaxed, happy, and ready to produce those juicy, red orbs we all crave! It all boils down to sunlight, soil, and strategic watering.

Sunshine, Sunshine, Tomato Fine

First up, sunlight. These guys are sun-worshippers, plain and simple. They need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight every day. Seriously, don’t skimp on this. It’s like sending them to a dimly lit office cubicle – they just won’t thrive.

What happens if they don’t get enough sun? Well, you might end up with a plant that’s all legs and no fruit. We’re talking leggy growth – long, spindly stems reaching desperately for light. And the fruit production? Prepare for disappointment. So, how do you maximize sunlight in your garden?

• Assess Your Space: Take a good look at your garden throughout the day. Where does the sun hit the longest?
• Strategic Planting: Position your tomato plants in the sunniest spot. Avoid planting them near tall trees or buildings that might cast shadows.
• Reflectors: If you’re really struggling, consider using reflectors (like white sheets or reflective film) to bounce extra light onto your plants. It’s a bit like giving them a sun tan, only healthier.

Dirt Matters: Soil That Makes ‘Em Smile

Next, let’s dig into soil. Bush Goliaths aren’t too picky, but they definitely appreciate a good foundation. The ideal soil is well-draining and loamy. Think of it as a Goldilocks situation – not too sandy, not too clayey, just right.

Why is well-draining soil so important? Soggy soil is a breeding ground for root rot, which is basically a death sentence for your tomato plant. Loamy soil, on the other hand, provides the perfect balance of drainage and nutrient retention.

Soil pH is another key factor. These tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. You can easily test your soil pH with a home test kit or send a sample to your local extension office for more detailed analysis.

How do you get this magical soil? Time to get your hands dirty!

• Amend, Amend, Amend: Incorporate plenty of compost or other organic matter into your soil. This improves drainage, adds nutrients, and creates a happy home for beneficial microbes. It’s like giving your soil a vitamin boost!
• Raised Beds: If you have heavy clay soil, consider growing your tomatoes in raised beds. This provides excellent drainage and allows you to create the perfect soil mix.
• Don’t Skimp on Drainage: Make sure water can drain freely! If you’re planting in containers, make sure there are ample drainage holes in the bottom.

Water Works: Hydration is Key

Finally, let’s dive into watering. Tomatoes need consistent watering, especially when those fruits start to plump up. But here’s the secret: it’s not about how much you water, but how you water.

The key is to water deeply and less frequently. Shallow, frequent watering encourages shallow root growth, making your plants more susceptible to drought stress. Instead, aim for deep watering that penetrates the soil and encourages roots to grow deep and strong.

• Drip Irrigation: Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are your best friends here. They deliver water directly to the roots, minimizing water waste and reducing the risk of fungal diseases. It’s like giving your plants a long, refreshing drink without any spills.
• Avoid Overhead Watering: Overhead watering (using a sprinkler, for example) can splash soil onto the leaves, creating the perfect environment for fungal diseases. Plus, it’s less efficient than watering at the base of the plant.
• Check the Soil: Stick your finger into the soil a couple of inches deep. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still moist, hold off. It’s like checking the oil in your car – a regular check will save you headaches down the road.
• Mulch is Your Friend: Add a layer of mulch around your tomato plants to help retain moisture in the soil.

Get these three things right – sun, soil, and water – and you’ll be well on your way to a bumper crop of delicious Bush Goliath tomatoes. Happy gardening!

Planting Your Bush Goliath Tomatoes: From Seed to Garden

Okay, so you’ve decided to grow Bush Goliath tomatoes – awesome choice! Now comes the fun part: getting those little guys into the ground. Whether you’re a seed-starting fanatic or prefer to grab some seedlings from your local nursery, here’s the lowdown on how to get your Bush Goliaths off to a fantastic start.

Starting from Seed: The DIY Route

So, you’re feeling ambitious? Awesome! Starting from seed is super rewarding, but it does require a bit of planning. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Bush Goliath tomato seeds: Obviously!
• Seed starting mix: Don’t use regular garden soil; it’s too heavy.
• Seed trays or small pots: Whatever floats your boat.
• Grow lights (optional): If you don’t have a sunny spot, these are super helpful.

The Seed-Starting Shuffle:

1. Get your containers ready: Fill those trays or pots with your seed starting mix.
2. Planting time: Make a small hole (about 1/4 inch deep) in the soil and drop in a seed. Cover it gently.
3. Watering: Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. A spray bottle works well.
4. Warmth and light: Aim for a temperature of around 70-75°F (21-24°C). If you’re using grow lights, keep them on for about 14-16 hours a day.
5. Patience, grasshopper!: In about a week or two, you should see little sprouts popping up.

Hardening Off: Tough Love for Tomatoes

Before you plop your baby tomato plants into the big, wide world (aka your garden), they need to toughen up. This is called “hardening off.” Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions for a few hours each day, increasing the time over a week or so. This prevents them from getting shocked by the sun and wind.

Buying Seedlings: The Easy Button

No shame in buying seedlings! It’s a great way to get a head start. Here’s how to pick the cream of the crop:

• Sturdy stems: Look for plants that aren’t leggy or floppy.
• Green leaves: Avoid plants with yellow or brown leaves.
• No pests or diseases: Give them a once-over for any signs of trouble.

Timing is Everything

Wait until after the last frost and when the soil has warmed up a bit. Tomatoes hate the cold.

Transplanting Like a Pro: Getting Them in the Ground

Okay, it’s go time! Here’s how to get those babies safely into their new home:

1. Prep the Site: Dig a hole that’s a little bigger than the pot your seedling is in. Amend the soil with some compost or well-rotted manure. This gives them a nutritious boost.
2. Careful Removal: Gently squeeze the sides of the pot to loosen the plant. Carefully slide it out, supporting the base of the stem.
3. Planting Depth: Plant the seedling so that the first set of leaves is just above the soil line. Tomatoes can grow roots along their stems, so planting them a bit deeper helps them establish a stronger root system.
4. Spacing: Give your Bush Goliath plants some elbow room. Aim for about 2-3 feet apart.
5. Support System: Add a tomato cage or stake at planting time. This will help keep them upright as they grow and get loaded with tomatoes.

Watering After Transplanting: Give them a good soaking after planting to help settle the soil around the roots.

Nurturing Your Bush Goliath Tomatoes: TLC for a Tomato Bonanza!

Alright, you’ve got your Bush Goliath babies in the ground, basking in the sun. Now what? Time to show them some love! Think of it as giving them the VIP treatment so they can pump out those juicy, red orbs we all crave. Let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of fertilizing, pruning, and providing support – the three pillars of tomato-growing success!

Fueling the Fruit: The Art of Fertilizing

Fertilizer is basically tomato plant food. Just like us, tomatoes need the right nutrients to thrive. When you first plant them, a balanced fertilizer (think 10-10-10) is a great way to give them a good start. But once they start setting fruit, they’ll need a boost of phosphorus and potassium. Look for a fertilizer with numbers like 5-10-10 – the middle number (phosphorus) and the last number (potassium) should be higher.

As for a schedule, fertilize every 2-3 weeks, following the instructions on the fertilizer package. Don’t overdo it! Too much fertilizer can lead to a leafy jungle with little to no fruit. Think of it like feeding a kid too much candy – they get hyper and then crash. Tomato plants can get the same “sugar rush” and then disappoint you with a lack of tomatoes. A little goes a long way!

Pruning for Performance: Snip, Snip Hooray!

Here’s the good news: Bush Goliath tomatoes are pretty low-maintenance when it comes to pruning. Unlike their wild and crazy indeterminate cousins, they don’t need constant taming. But there’s one little trick that can boost your harvest: removing suckers.

Suckers are those little shoots that pop up between the main stem and the branches. If you let them grow, they’ll turn into more stems, more leaves, and fewer tomatoes. Pinching off the suckers below the first flower cluster helps the plant focus its energy on producing big, beautiful fruit. It’s like telling the plant, “Hey, stop trying to grow sideways and focus on making tomatoes!”

Support is Key: Staking, Caging, and Tomato Taming

Even though they’re called “Bush” Goliaths, these plants can still get pretty hefty with all those tomatoes weighing them down. Without some support, they’ll sprawl all over the ground, which can lead to diseases and make harvesting a muddy mess.

There are a few ways to keep them upright and happy:

• Tomato cages: These are easy to use and provide all-around support. Just plop them over the plant when it’s young.
• Stakes: Drive a sturdy stake into the ground near the plant and tie the main stem to it with soft twine or cloth strips.
• Trellises: If you’re feeling fancy, a trellis can provide a beautiful and functional support system.

Whichever method you choose, providing support will improve airflow, prevent the plant from touching the soil, and make those ripe tomatoes much easier to spot and pick. It’s like giving your tomatoes a standing ovation!

Battling Pests and Diseases: Identification and Prevention

Alright, let’s talk about the uninvited guests in your tomato party – pests and diseases! Even the mighty Bush Goliath isn’t immune, but fear not, we’ve got a plan to keep your plants healthy and your tomatoes delicious. Think of this as your tomato bodyguard training manual.

Common Tomato Pests

These little critters can wreak havoc if you’re not careful. Here’s the rogues’ gallery:

• Aphids: Tiny sap-suckers that love to cluster on new growth. Look for sticky residue (honeydew) and distorted leaves.
• Tomato Hornworms: Massive green caterpillars that can defoliate a plant overnight. Keep an eye out for missing leaves and their droppings (frass).
• Whiteflies: Tiny, white, flying insects that flutter around when disturbed. They also leave behind sticky honeydew.
• Spider Mites: Very small and difficult to see, but they cause stippling on leaves and can eventually cover the plant in webbing.

Organic Pest Control to the Rescue:

• Insecticidal Soap: A gentle spray that suffocates many soft-bodied pests.
• Neem Oil: A natural insecticide that disrupts the life cycle of many pests.
• Handpicking: For the truly dedicated – pluck those hornworms off and relocate them (far away!).

Common Tomato Diseases

These fungal and bacterial baddies can really put a damper on your harvest.

• Early Blight: Dark spots on lower leaves that eventually spread.
• Late Blight: A devastating disease that can kill plants quickly, especially in wet weather. Look for irregular, water-soaked spots on leaves and fruit.
• Septoria Leaf Spot: Small, circular spots with light centers on the leaves.
• Blossom End Rot: Black, leathery spot on the bottom of the tomato, caused by a calcium deficiency.

Prevention is Key:

• Proper Spacing: Give your plants room to breathe to improve air circulation.
• Good Air Circulation: Prune (remove suckers) to increase airflow and reduce humidity.
• Avoiding Overhead Watering: Water at the base of the plant to keep the leaves dry.

Organic Disease Control:

• Copper Fungicide: A preventative treatment for fungal diseases.
• Baking Soda Spray: Can help control some fungal diseases. Mix 1 teaspoon of baking soda with 1 quart of water and a few drops of liquid soap.

Disease Resistance

While the Bush Goliath isn’t completely immune to everything, it often exhibits good resistance to some common tomato diseases. Always check the seed packet or plant label for specific disease resistance information to help you choose the best plants for your area.

Harvesting and Enjoying Your Bountiful Crop

Alright, you’ve nurtured your Bush Goliath tomatoes, dodged the pests, and now those green orbs are finally blushing into a beautiful, vibrant red! This is the payoff, folks! Harvesting your own tomatoes is like discovering buried treasure – a delicious, juicy treasure. Let’s dive into how to snag those beauties at their peak of perfection.

When to Pluck Your Prize-Winning Produce:

So, how do you know when a Bush Goliath is ready for its close-up (and your sandwich)? Forget those rock-hard, store-bought imposters. A ripe Bush Goliath will be fully colored, a deep, even red that makes your mouth water just looking at it. Give it a gentle squeeze – it should have a little “give,” feeling slightly soft but not mushy. Think of it like a perfectly ripe peach.

Now, for the timing. The ideal time to harvest is in the early morning. Why? Because the tomatoes are cooler then, having spent the night chilling out (literally). This helps them stay fresher longer after you’ve picked them. Plus, let’s be honest, there’s something incredibly satisfying about starting your day with a basket full of sunshine-warmed tomatoes.

Harvesting Like a Pro:

Okay, time for the extraction! The key is to be gentle. Don’t go yanking those tomatoes off like you’re trying to win a tug-of-war. The best way is to gently twist the tomato until the stem snaps. You can also use pruning shears or scissors to cut the stem close to the fruit.

Avoid squeezing or bruising the tomatoes during this process. Treat them like the delicate darlings they are. A bruised tomato is a sad tomato (and a tomato that will spoil faster). Place your harvested treasures gently into a basket or container, taking care not to pile them too high.

From Garden to Gourmet: Storing and Savoring:

You’ve got a basket overflowing with red goodness! Now what?

• Storing Secrets: The best way to store fresh-picked Bush Goliath tomatoes is at room temperature, away from direct sunlight. Sunlight will speed up the ripening process and can make them mushy. Also, resist the urge to refrigerate them unless they are overly ripe. Refrigeration can dull their flavor and change their texture.

• Enjoying the Bounty: Ah, the best part! The possibilities are endless. Fresh tomatoes can elevate anything.

  • Salads: Sliced thick with fresh basil, a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper is pure bliss.
  • Sandwiches: Nothing beats a juicy tomato slice on a BLT or a simple turkey sandwich.
  • Sauces: Homemade tomato sauce? Forget about it! The flavor of homegrown tomatoes will blow your mind.
  • Salsas: Whip up a fresh salsa with onions, cilantro, jalapenos, and lime juice for the ultimate taco topping.

• Preserving the Flavor: Don’t want your tomato party to end? There are plenty of ways to preserve your harvest for enjoyment all year round:

  • Canning: Learn the art of canning and enjoy homemade tomato sauce and diced tomatoes throughout the winter.
  • Freezing: Freeze whole tomatoes or tomato sauce for easy meal prep.
  • Drying: Sun-dried tomatoes (or oven-dried, if you’re impatient) are a delicious addition to pizzas, pastas, and salads.

So there you have it! Harvesting and enjoying your Bush Goliath tomatoes is the culmination of all your hard work. Savor every bite, knowing that you grew that deliciousness yourself!

Troubleshooting Common Tomato Problems

Okay, so you’ve done everything right, followed all the guides, and your Bush Goliath tomatoes are looking… well, not quite like those picture-perfect fruits you envisioned. Don’t sweat it! Even the most seasoned gardeners run into snags. Let’s tackle some common tomato troubles and turn that frown upside down!

Blossom End Rot: The Butt of the Joke is a Deficiency

Ever see a tomato with a nasty, dark, sunken spot on its bottom? That’s blossom end rot, and it’s a real party pooper. But before you chuck the whole plant, know this: it’s usually not a disease but a calcium deficiency. Calcium is crucial for cell wall development, and when the plant can’t get enough, the fruit basically starts to break down at the blossom end.

• The Culprit: The problem usually stems from inconsistent watering rather than a lack of calcium in the soil itself. When the soil dries out, the plant can’t efficiently uptake the calcium.
• The Fix:
  • Watering is Key: Consistent, deep watering is your best friend here. Mulch around your plants to help retain moisture.
  • Calcium Boost: A foliar spray with calcium chloride or bone meal can give your plants a quick calcium boost. Follow the product instructions carefully!
  • Soil Test: Get your soil tested to determine the calcium levels. If the soil is genuinely deficient, amend it with lime or gypsum before planting next year.

Cracking Fruit: When Your Tomatoes Show Their Stress

Those beautiful, red tomatoes start developing cracks, usually around the top near the stem. It’s unsightly, and can make your prized fruit vulnerable to pests and diseases. What gives?

• The Culprit: Cracking is typically caused by sudden changes in soil moisture. If your tomato plants experience a dry spell followed by heavy rain or overwatering, the fruit expands too quickly, causing the skin to split.
• The Fix:
  • Consistent Watering: Again, a steady supply of water is paramount. Water deeply during dry periods and try to maintain even soil moisture.
  • Mulch It Up: Mulch helps regulate soil temperature and moisture levels, reducing the risk of cracking.
  • Harvest Early: If heavy rain is on the horizon, harvest tomatoes that are starting to turn color, even if they’re not fully ripe. They’ll ripen indoors without cracking.

Poor Fruit Set: Where Did All The Tomatoes Go?

You’ve got beautiful flowers, but they just drop off without producing any tomatoes. It is frustrating. You end up wondering where your harvest is. It is a real bummer when you don’t see any fruit.

• The Culprit: Poor fruit set can be caused by various factors, but high temperatures and lack of pollination are the most common.
• The Fix:
  • Heat Relief: When temperatures soar above 90°F (32°C), tomato pollen becomes sterile, preventing fertilization. Provide shade during the hottest part of the day using shade cloth or strategically placed umbrellas.
  • Hand Pollination: Help nature out by hand-pollinating the flowers. Use a small brush or cotton swab to transfer pollen from one flower to another. Or, gently shake the plants to release pollen.
  • Encourage Pollinators: Plant flowers that attract bees and other pollinators to your garden.

So, there you have it! With a little love and attention, your Bush Goliath tomatoes will be the envy of the neighborhood. Get ready for some seriously delicious BLTs!